Spectacular day!

We left our anchorage just north of Passe Toahatu (after a quick swim- jump in anywhere and the water is delightful and snorkeling worthwhile) and cruised around the north end of Taha'a sightseeing. We stopped just off a trio of motus where a brisk stream of water runs over a spectacular coral grove. Anchor set, we all started piling into the dinghy - only to discover we (9 of us) didn't all fit! So KC and I kayaked while the others dinked past a cluster of high-rent cabins on stilts perched over crystal clear aquamarine waters. At the entrance to the Coral River (near a wooden sign decorated with sea shells, titled "Jardin Corail") a local gentleman amusedly okayed us bringing our boats ashore. He showed us a pen where he had a black tip shark and held it - thrashing - while we admired its strength and beauty. wed (we were thinking tangs and pretty coral) we traipsed the length of the islet to the edge nearest the reef, donned masks and fins, and entered anyway: beginning a most amazing snorkelling experience. 

From the get-go it was like being immersed in an aquarium: with a shocking abundance of brilliant friendly fishes ... we were swept along with the current: at times making quick jogs or retreating against the current, to stay in waters just deep enough to avoid the corals and urchins. Woe is me being a girl with a generous bow: I was convinced at various shallow parts the length of my body would be swept with fire coral or needlepointed with spiny urchins - alas we negotiated the length of the river unscathed, and in utter amazement. We kayaked / dinghied back, pulled up anchor and proceeded a wee bit futher south, at an anchorage off Chez Louise.

A delightful few hours with nothing to do ... we followed by our assemby and shuttle (two loads) to the very tentative docks at Chez Louise. Her daughter Maina hosted us, we alone at water's edge, with geckos scurrying the tables and posts (including one who hopped from the water bottle to Jane's dinner plate). Maina brought out a beamy split bamboo laden with lobster, shrimp, mahi, and poisson cru - all dripping with butter; and a partner bamboo stuffed with baguette and rice. To keep them from rolling she propped these 'serving platters' with Hinano bottle caps. Vin blanc and vin rouge kept our feast company and we toasted "manuia" (?) "cheers" ... What a delicous memorable meal in an unforgettable setting. After we were sated we loaded the dindgy and ventured across the blackened channel to our yacht. Ironically her name is Hudson :-) after my favorite river, oh so many miles away. Tiny bits of bioluminescence twinkled in the water: but they were no match for the spectacular stars that spotted the sky.

Tomorrow (Thursday) we will start EARLY: pulling up anchor by 7 (!) for a half-day tour of the inland of Taha'a: the vanilla plantations and other inland farms and preserves. After that we plan to spend the night and head to Bora Bora, and later Mapitu (if conditions continue to be favorable).

Our internet access has been ... nil. Hence the stacked up dispatches. Remember: no news is good news :-)

Over & out, Betsy 

 DAWN CHORUS (MONDAY)

My friend Jane recently wrote about the dawn chorus (www.ecology.com) and there is no better place to experience this I'm convinced, than our bungalows on Raiatea - where the peculiar scratching and clacking (of crabs?) in the dark of night is but a prelude to the racket of birds welcoming the new day: each adding their own distinctive voice to the choir - a crazy unscripted yet perfect harmony of morning song surrounding our quirky cabin 20 feet from the satin smooth waters of Sunset Beach, where I'm watching the day turn from slate to pink to Tuesday with the rising sun.

There was no question last night, about why this is called the Sunset Beach Hotel (a collection of funky but more-than-adequate sleeps-five circa-60s cabins with spacious decks and lawns jammed with fruit and flower trees galore). We had a perfect westward view of the fiery sun as it set alongside Bora Bora -the clouds in the hills behind us turning rosy and bold, the sky streaked red and gold and grey, reflected in the still waters of the lagoon. Time froze as we stopped everything to watch and applaud the end of another great day.

It began in Papeete -in a mild rush to (re) pack, return the car, board the plane for Uturoa, simultaneously 'ahhhhh' as we approached the isle; were met at the tiny open airport by the charming strapping Moana who shuttled us to the market for more baguettes (and booze) and then the bungalows on our private beach. It was heaven.

We had a potluck picnic on our deck, swam, snorkeled... KC did a little surgery on Barb (who skimmed one of the many spiny black urchins along the reef). Tina and I followed the path through a canopy of flowers to the 'office' where a cluster of lifejackets, snorkel gear and other odds and ends lived, to pick up some paddles, then back past the trio of parakeets, grabbing some bananas and pomelos from a table labeled 'help yourself' - we kayaked over the crystal clear waters while others chatted and napped. Later, as we enjoyed frosty (expensive) Hinanos and Original Tahiti Drink(s) the Pacific Voyagers sailed by! What a thrill to see them - as I last saw them at Cabrillo Beach (LA) nearly a year ago: these hardy and lovely eco-warriors are sailing the Pacific Rim to boost awareness about the environment and Polynesian culture. We all stood - as if to salute them - until they had journeyed 'round the point and were no longer in sight. (See a story about their mission also at www.ecology.com and the April issue of SAILING magazine.)

That night we rallied for dinner at Les Voiles d'Or - a delightful restaurant at the nearby marina, where an impromptu band performed the same songs over and over. "Dancing Cheek to Cheek" was playing as I entered the room: with its low slung ceilings, the music, the tepid air embracing your skin - the warmth of the night and friends swallowed us up; and the laughter - as we tried to communicate with our jolly waiter Pascal and met the sailing team (conspicuous in their matching royal blue polos) from Poland at one of only three or four occupied tables. We capped the night of beaucoup Bordeaux with coconut creme brulee and called it an early night: Tuesday we re-pack (oh for the final time for two weeks: hallelujah!!) and set sail with Dream Yacht Charters.

At present a portly blackbird with a bright yellow beak is chiding me - "tsk tsk tsk tsk tsk!" - telling me, I supposed, it's time for me to start my day too. More dispatches will follow as wifi permits: we leave for Taha'a today.

~ Betsy

ADDENDUM - TUESDAY

The drudgery of the first day (packing & moving your stuff. waiting to board the boat. the time involved checking out the boat and reviewing the charts. provisioning. stowing, etc. while everyone is just so damned eager to  off the dock!) was amplified by the fact we 'lost' a cart of groceries. In their haste to get us out the door (it is a holiday celebrating the day the US liberated France, we were told) they started checking us out while we shopped, so each time we filled one of the little carts, we wheeled it to the cashier, she rang it up, boxed it, and it was lugged out to the pickup we subsquently climbed in the back of, and jounced to the marina. Eventually we realized some things were missing, and in a last-minute dash Holly & KC went to the market while I stuffed things in various cubbies ~ we finally, finally got underway - made it to the anchorage off the eastern shore of Taha'a, ate slow cooked (unintentionally, with our charcoal bbq) steaks, salad more baguette, champagne which Owen contributed for a toast and now at last AHHHHHHHHHHHHhh we get to go to sleep!!